The title could have read, “The Grand Tetons kicked our butts,” or “We experienced peak disappointment in the Grand Tetons.” Read on for this Tale in the Tetons.
Mid-September our calendar read, “Grand Tetons National Park, Colter Bay Campground,” and this is the one stop we were both very much looking forward to. It’s our first visit to the Grand Tetons, so we booked two nights in the Colter Bay Campground, on Jackson Lake. We are collecting stamps in our National Park Journal along with several passport books. Collecting stamps takes us places we might not ordinarily think to go.
We will get into the challenges in a minute. But first, let’s review a few fun facts about the Grand Tetons.
The Grand Teton Mountain is in a 40-mile mountain range that can be seen in its entirety from one overlook (and there are many). Each overlook provides a unique view, with a different mountain exposed more prominently than the others. We drove the scenic loop, went to the visitor center, stopped at several overlooks, saw the Snake River crawling beside the mountain range, and walked to Jackson Lake from our campsite where a beautiful view of the mountains unfolded in front of the colorful sunset. Grand Teton is the tallest of the mountains at 13,775 feet above sea level. It is more rugged and jagged than the others, although the entire mountain range is quite beautiful. Snow still stands at the top of these mountains.
The Grand Tetons is the only national park with its own airport. We saw several planes landing right beside the road where we traveled to the park. Also, one website said the Grand Tetons are the youngest mountain range in the Rocky Mountain Range, and quite possibly among the youngest in the world.
After spending one day in the Grand Tetons, we decided to take a trip to Yellowstone National Park. We had been to Yellowstone once before, but it was a very long time ago. Bryan was a young boy and our daughter was still inside my womb. She just turned 27!
Yellowstone National Park has changed a great deal since our last visit. Now it includes hotels and general stores and gas stations at nearly every village. Also, we were able to go into areas that were closed before; we were there Memorial Weekend in 1997 surrounded by snow banks. We saw Old Faithful and other geysers erupt, took in some lake and mountain views, saw the Canyon Falls and Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, had lunch by the roar of the Yellowstone River, drove the full scenic loop, and saw some bison herds. It was a very good day.
Quite a lot of animals live in the two National Parks. Pronghorn reside there, and in case you didn’t know, they are the fastest mammal on land in the western hemisphere. They can run up to 70 miles per hour. Lots of birds were also of interest. We saw some ground squirrels and chipmunks, but most of the big animals besides the bison eluded us. We missed seeing the bears and bighorn sheep, but we felt satisfied with our animal sightings. The most popular animal was the two-legged kind, riding in their steel cages and on their two-wheeled motorbikes. Needless to say, traffic was horrible and patience was tried.
But that wasn’t the worse of our tale.
Our Airstream Globetrotter (lovingly known as “Roam Home” or “Roamy” for short), has been our full-time home for the past 160+ days. We have been running her pretty hard. She has been faithful to us with minor repairs as can be expected with any house on wheels: a few loose screws, missing rivets, etc. But this time we experienced something new. In the Grand Tetons we had to boondock, also known as dry camping, meaning they have no electric, water, or sewer hook-ups. Normally we can go 4 or 5 days without needing any hook-up, so we didn’t think two nights would be a problem.
However, for some reason the batteries could not keep up. It got very cold at night, down into the 30’s, and we had to turn on the furnace. The furnace runs on propane, but it does require electricity to kick on. That was fine the first night, and we were toasty warm. But the batteries completely drained by the second night, and that meant no heat.
Our spot was surrounded by trees, so our solar panels were only in full sun for a few short hours during the day. We weren’t home most of the time, as we were site-seeing and driving scenic loops in both of the National Parks, so we weren’t using any battery energy. The only thing pulling electric was our 12v refrigerator. However, it seemed the battery life was going down pretty quickly in spite of this. By the second night we had to turn off the entire system (which meant no fridge, and no heat). We bundled up and layered up, slept under two blankets, and made it through the night.
The next day we drove to Cheyenne Wyoming. It’s a long drive, and typically the batteries will charge while they are connected to the tow vehicle. Plus it was a sunny day, and the solar panels had full sun the entire way (well, except for the big storm we drove through at the end of the day). Halfway there, during our lunch stop, Tim checked the battery level and it seemed to be charging. But when we got to Cheyenne the batteries were dead, or at least very low so that they would not permit the power to stay on in the Airstream. After plugging in to shore power, the batteries were fine. From them on, we’ve had no trouble with the batteries staying charged.
We tried to diagnose the problem We checked the battery level manually with a multimeter, called our mechanic friend, called Battle Born (the lithium battery manufacturer), called Airstream, and ultimately decided we need to get the batteries load tested.
Our plans now include a side trip to Ohio, where we will stay at the Mothership campground, and get the batteries tested, and the rear axle replaced. In case you didn’t hear, our rear left tire was wearing faster than the others, and Dexter Axles is giving us a free new axle “as a courtesy,” with “no implied warranty attached.” We’ll also have them do some other minor warranty work while we are there.
We managed to salvage some of the food in the fridge, while the freezer stuff had to be tossed. We defrosted the refrigerator at the next stop, gave it a good cleaning, and started filling it back up. I was happy our grilled chicken was still good, as well as the salad. That was dinner the first night in Nebraska.
À la prochaine…hasta la próxima vez…until next time!
